We can certainly have that conversation with you.Įven if that's not possible, it is certainly possible to install a "sub-panel", or another electrical panel fed from the first one - to free up space and provide more space. Generally, there are ways to squeeze an extra circuit or two out of a nearly full panel. Or the internal charger module within the EV may self-limit to 12A or 16A when it sees 120V, as a safety measure. EV owners have tried using them and have had very mixed results, typically getting 12A charging. When they see 120V, they infer they are on a 15A circuit and draw no more than 12A.įor instance, small travel trailers use a TT30 - 120V/30A. Portable "lump in the cord" type EVSEs have no way of knowing the supply ampacity. The builders just assumed "Level 2 = 240V surely". Hard-wired wall-mount Level 2 EVSE's aren't designed for a 120V circuit, and their electronics may not work on a 120V circuit. Meaning, they just aren't thinking about it when they design their products, and don't include it in their testing. And since it is weird, nobody supports it. Nothing in the EV specification prohibits using 50A 120V. The EVSE is the module that sits on the wall. EVSE's and cars aren't really designed for it However what matters is the service size, which is indicated by the size of the main breaker (if everyone did their jobs). However, let's presume that you did a proper Load Calc and you have lots of room.Īlso, most panels are rated 200/225A. Those get taken care of in "catch-all” parts of the calculation. The main thing is, don't bother tallying up anything that plugs into a 120V circuit. There is a proper procedure called a Load Calculation, outlined in Article 220 of NEC (though you would be better off using third party sites or books to calculate it, as NEC isn't really set up for learning). First, you don't get to "spin your own" way of determining whether you have enough amps in reserve*.
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